Part 3 - Settling into Pura Vida: SIMs, Customs & Cars

Dear Friends,

If you’ve been following along, you’ll know that the road from Vietnam to Costa Rica has been anything but straight. We’ve navigated cyber attacks, airport delays and heart-wrenching 'farewell-for-nows', and even when Dusty and I finally landed in San Jose, that wasn't straightforward! I gave myself two weeks in the capital to do five simple things: buy a car, collect my belongings from customs, open a bank account, sort out my visa paperwork and get a local SIM card. I thought one task per day would leave space to breathe. Costa Rica, of course, had other ideas.

Settling in

We arrived three days later than expected, so my first day was intentionally slow. I worked, unpacked and took Dusty for a walk around the neighbourhood. He stepped onto the thick tropical grass, froze, lifted his paw and shot me a look that said, “absolutely not.” New environments unsettle us in ways we don’t anticipate. In time, even reluctant paws make peace with the ground beneath them, which I'm glad to say they have.

SIM saga

My first errand was to get a local number. Escazú’s narrow, gridded streets tested my sense of direction, and asking for a SIM card with my terrible Spanish set the tone for many conversations full of smiles, gestures and Google Translate to come. A kind shop assistant patiently walked me through the paperwork, and I left feeling triumphant with a Kölbi SIM for local calls - I had already set up a Nomad eSIM for data. Two days later I discovered the email on my Kolbi account wasn’t right and I wasn't able to log into the App. After messages went nowhere, I returned to the shop. Another warm smile, updated details, and all was well. Progress here is a dance between persistence, patience and the (continued) generosity of strangers.

Bank & visa

An unrelated, but cool bee-hotel in the La Boa dog park in San José

Next on my list was opening a bank account. I’d read that Banco de Costa Rica opens accounts for foreigners with just a passport. At the first branch my nerves tangled and the limited Spanish I had learned escaped me - I was politely told it wasn’t possible. I returned later with a carefully scripted message and every notarised document under the sun. The banker listened, conferred with his manager and delivered the same verdict: necesitas esperar para la visa.

Even at the immigration office, where I queued in the wrong line and then the right one, kindness abounded. The visa, applied for before leaving and delayed by three months because of an influx in applications, became my teacher in surrender. No one could solve the problem, but everyone offered reassurance. In Costa Rica, even bureaucracy comes with a smile and a genuine wish to support.

Customs hurdles

Just as I settled into the pace of waiting, FedEx emailed to say my boxes had arrived - except they don’t handle personal belongings. Before leaving the UK, an agent had assured me my items would sail through without taxes. Now I needed a customs broker. Ten days of tense emails, forms and acronyms followed with Giovanny, the wonderful import manager at Adusi S.A. Finally, after a frantic day of phone calls, he confirmed his contact was able to release my sentimental bits and pieces. When I finally got them to the Airbnb, a little battered and damp, I lit an incense stick and the familiar scent wrapped around us like a hug. For the first time since leaving the UK, it smelled like home.

Car chaos

Finding a car was the last big task. Buying a vehicle in Costa Rica can be complicated and costly because of high import taxes, and choosing the right make and model matters because parts and expertise need to be available across the country. I wanted a small 4×4 to reach remote locations. Wheels CR helped by sourcing options from trusted dealers and guiding me through the legal process.

Even though I had a few hiccups after purchasing my little Suzuki Jimny, Ricardo at Icon’s Cars, took responsibility for every issue and made sure everything was reliable before I left the city. Wheels CR also handled the notary process required to transfer ownership, saving me time and stress.

Driving Costa Rica

Driving in San Jose feels like a unique blend of Vietnam, England and America. The streets are narrow and busy with motorbikes, the signage evokes U.S. highways, and the narrow roads feel like navigating those in the U.K. When I finally left the capital in torrential rain (another three days later than anticipated) I took Ruta Nacional 126 - immaculately maintained, with only a few potholes signposted on Waze and a maximum speed of 40 km/h. It was an unexpectedly easy, and phenomenal drive.

As I climbed through misty mountains and emerging sunshine, I was awestruck by the beauty around me: lush rainforests, towering volcanic peaks and cascading waterfalls. Somewhere along that winding road, between blue skies and green valleys, I smiled from the inside out. Not at the stress or the waiting, but at the reminder that nothing worth doing ever unfolds in a straight line. I had arrived.

Pura vida lessons

Costa Rica softens your edges. It invites you to slow down, savour conversations in queues and appreciate the connections tucked into every delay. The SIM card, the bank, the boxes and the car - all have been small rites of passage into a country that runs on relationships rather than speed. I feel like I'm beginning to touch into an understanding of what pura vida really means, and I’m grateful you’re along for the journey.

Practical tips

• Stay connected: Get a Kölbi SIM for local calls and a Nomad eSIM for data so you’re reachable from day one.

• Buy wisely: Consider working with Wheels CR to source a reliable vehicle and handle the notary paperwork. A 4×4 with common parts (for example, a Suzuki) makes travelling to remote areas easier.

• Customs help: If you’re shipping personal belongings, a trusted broker like Giovanny at Adusi S.A can guide you through the paperwork.

• Drive slowly: Expect narrow roads, motorbikes and occasional potholes. Waze is helpful, and routes like Ruta 126 are beautiful but slow.

• Use AI to narrow options: Tools like the ChatGPT Agent can help you research shipping agents, brokers and other services quickly, but always verify recommendations with your own due diligence.

“The greatness of a community is most accurately measured by the compassionate actions of its members.” - Coretta Scott King

With gratitude and love,

Naomi